This is an acid-loving species that thrives in fertile soil. Then make the garden soil loose and crumbly in an area that is two to five feet wide, and as deep as your height measurement. Measure the distance from the crown, where the branches meet the roots, to the bottom of the nursery pot or burlap bag. Instead of plunking it into a narrow hole, place it in an area of soil that has been loosened, to support lateral root growth. The roots of this bush are shallow and extend outward. The first step in planting a shrub is not to dig a hole, but to prepare a bed, as described in the “Elevate the Crown” section. This is due to a lack of sunlight penetration to the bottom portion of the shrub. Something you are unlikely to read in a plant description is that the lower portions of this shrub’s branches sometimes drop their leaves, leaving unsightly “bare legs.” The root ball should be set in the hole so that the top roots sit at or slightly above ground level when planting is complete. It should be as deep as the distance from the top roots to the bottom of the root ball. The pros at the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center recommend preparing a hole that is two to five feet wide. This can cause even a moisture-loving plant to suffer from oversaturation, as water is likely to pool instead of draining away, limiting the roots’ intake of essential oxygen. Elevate the CrownĪ common mistake gardeners make when planting is to set the crown, or the point where the branches meet the roots, too deeply in the soil. You’ll read about one shortly, in the “Substitute for Boxwood” section, and you’ll be introduced to several others in the photo captions throughout the article.Īllowing suckers to remain in proximity to the main shrub may be detrimental to all in the form of crowding that causes reduced airflow and root space, competition for nourishment, and reduced sun exposure. You can reduce the risk of suckering by purchasing a cultivated variety, rather than a straight species. If they are uprooted with care, you may be able to transplant them. The species plant, as it appears in the wild, is prone to “suckering.” In addition, stressors like a lack of water or root damage from mowing equipment can make a plant more likely to sucker.Īs soon as you see sprouts growing under or near your shrub, pull them out and discard them, unless you want multiple hollies to grow. If they are not removed, you may end up with a “colony” of shrubs that sprouted from the first one. Suckers are shoots that grow randomly from a shrub, tree, or other woody plant’s roots. So, you may want to buy a female, give it a year or two, and if you don’t get fruit, seek out a male from a reputable nursery. The closer you plant a male and female, the greater the chance of pollination.Īlso, the primary pollinators of these plants are bees, so if you have an abundance of flowers, the odds of producing fruit are even greater.Īnd finally, since this is a native plant, it’s possible that a male may be growing near enough for pollinators to visit it and then come to your property. That’s a great question, and there’s not a definite answer. The logical question I’m sure you’re thinking is, “How far apart should I plant them?” However, only the female sets fruit, provided there is a male shrub in the vicinity to provide the pollen necessary for fertilization. This is a dioecious species, and both male and female plants produce flowers. Prune to shape in early spring just before new growth begins.I.Excellent shrub for wet soils, bog gardens, rain gardens, and along streams or ponds. Perfect for hedges or for foundation plantings. Does poorly in neutral to alkaline soils and often dies. Tolerates poorly drained soils as well as wet boggy conditions.
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